Puja Ceremony

11 Apr 2008

It aways seems to be beautiful weather on Puja day, a day chosen from the Lama calender. Down valley the steep north face of Cholatse is framed by the equally steep north faces of faces of Taboche and Lobuche, all seamed with potential climbs.  Behind us the Pumori  is shining in the sun, and in front of us, behind the Lhapsur wedged in between the huge west shoulders of Everest and Nuptse is the our first target, the Khumbu Icefall.  The whole team is here. Trekkers and climbers and Sherpas.  We are seated in random rows, sipping cups of tea and chang.  Ang Dorjee is sitting beside me. He explains;  “Why we doing puja? Because we believe we are stepping on the god Milla Lansarma. We apologize to the gods. The main offering is for Milla Langsarma,  tsampa, chang and milk, tea and chundu. we also make offering for the three other gods; Khumbila, Taboche and Lobuche. On the Lhapsur those three white rocks with Khatas represent the three gods.”  The Lama reads prayers from Sherpa prayer books, accompanied by cymbals, bells, and a vertical drum beaten with a curved drumstick. Sometimes the Sherpas join in with the prayers.   Ang Dorjee continues.  “When the Lama says Yilla it means Kumbila. Over there Phutashi (one of our most experienced climbing Sherpas) is putting Sangza on the fire. Good smell; happy for the gods.”  After the Sangza, Tsoh is passed round the congregation. Lungdar are hung from the the pole  above the Lhapsur.  “The  Lungdar are blessed by the lama, they must be three, five, seven or nine lines. Today we have nine lines. Now we give Chundu to the gods. Throw three times!”  The crowd says 'So,so, soso...' and throws the Chundu into the air. Three times soso.  This is repeated with Tsampa.  Then  everyone smears their neighbor's face with the flour.   “The white on the face means asking for long life, until you get a white beard! Next we put tsampa on the left shoulder of men an the right shoulder of women”  The ceremony ended with the tying of Sungdi and  Shungna.  “That is it. In this way we apologize to the Gods and ask for their help.”  Puja day. Always a very special day for all of us. It marks the beginning of the great adventure. ===========================================GLOSSARYLhapsur; an altar made of white stonesMilla Langsarma ; the goddess of ChomolungmaChundu; rice that been blessedKhata: white scarf used in religious thingsSangza; burnt offeringsTsoh; small snacks, sweets for everyoneLungdar; prayer FlagsTsampa: roasted barley flourSungdi: string blessed by lamaShungna: prayer wrapped in a small parcel   Ang Dorjee and Victor Saunders, also published in http://www.adventure.co.nz/AdventureInternational/Everest2008/